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Benin

The town where history is walked on foot.

Ouidah holds together two things people assume cannot coexist: the memory of the slave trade and an intact spiritual life. The Slave Route runs down to the ocean; the Python Temple receives visitors every day; and each January the town becomes the heart of the Vodun Days.

  • Two to three days
  • All year round — January for the Vodun Days

The place

What Ouidah tells you

You begin at the Python Temple, where the sacred snakes move freely and settle on the shoulders of those who want them to. It is neither a zoo nor a show: it is a place of worship, and you enter it as such.

Then the Slave Route. A few kilometres of sand down to the Door of No Return, marked by memorials — the Tree of Forgetting, the Zomaï hut where captives were held in darkness, the Memorial of the Great Sacrifice. You walk slowly. Tony tells the story, then falls silent.

The sacred forest of Kpassè closes the day on a gentler note: deity statues beneath tall trees, and the quiet of woodland that was never cut.

Which journey

Ouidah happens during the Ouidah stage.

Days 10 to 12

Ouidah, memory and vodun

Three days in Ouidah, because one is not enough. The Python Temple first, then the Slave Route walked down to the Door of No Return, facing the ocean.

See the full itinerary

Around the place

More views of the region

A dancer in a raffia costume spinning on the bare earth, his skirt flared open, before a circle of women in wax-print cloth
A dancer in a raffia costume spinning on the bare earth, his skirt flared open, before a circle of women in wax-print cloth
Four women in matching wax-print cloth and knotted headscarves standing side by side during Vodun Days, dancers’ raffia skirts in the background
Four women in matching wax-print cloth and knotted headscarves standing side by side during Vodun Days, dancers’ raffia skirts in the background
Profile portrait of a Vodun Days participant, face and shoulders coated in ochre powder, gaze turned towards the ceremony
Profile portrait of a Vodun Days participant, face and shoulders coated in ochre powder, gaze turned towards the ceremony
Torso of a Vodun Days initiate wearing several strings of red and white beads, skin dusted with ochre in the light beneath the trees
Torso of a Vodun Days initiate wearing several strings of red and white beads, skin dusted with ochre in the light beneath the trees
A raffia dancer caught mid-jump, both feet off the ground and the fibre skirt suspended in the air, the Vodun Days crowd behind him
A raffia dancer caught mid-jump, both feet off the ground and the fibre skirt suspended in the air, the Vodun Days crowd behind him

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